First Mate Yacht Club
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Anchoring Checklist

Set it once. Sleep properly.

How to use: Work down it in order. Tap the circle to check a step off. Hit View Details on any step for what to look for and why it matters. Your progress is saved on this device, so you can close it mid-anchorage and pick it back up.
Anchoring Progress
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Set and holding. Enjoy it.

Before The Day

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Ground tackle you have not touched since last season is not ground tackle you can rely on. Do these at the dock, with time to fix what you find.

Step 01
Anchor and chain serviced and lubricated
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Not just looked at from the helm. Get up there, run some chain out, and check it moves the way it should.

Rust and salt build up in the gypsy and on the pivot. A stiff anchor that will not rotate out of the roller is a job for a Saturday morning, not for an approach with your family aboard.

Step 02
Windlass free spools
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Release the brake and confirm the chain runs out under its own weight, then stops cleanly when you wind the brake back on.

This matters more than most owners realise. Free spooling is what lets you put the anchor exactly where you want it. If you have to winch it down on the motor, the boat drifts off the spot while the anchor is still on its way to the bottom.

If it will not free spool, get it sorted before the trip. Winching down works, but you lose the ability to place the anchor accurately, and that is the whole game in a tight anchorage.
Step 03
Brake handle located
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Know exactly where it lives and put it back there every time.

This is not a thing to go hunting for on the foredeck with the boat drifting down onto somebody's stern.

Step 04
Electric up tested
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Run the windlass up under power and confirm it lifts properly.

Down is gravity. Up is the motor, the breaker, the solenoid and the battery all working together. That is the half that fails, and you find out at the end of the day when you want to go home.

Step 05
Chain markings readable
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You are about to tell your crew how much chain to pay out. They need to be able to see the marks to call it.

Faded paint or missing cable ties means somebody guessing. Guessing on scope is how you end up dragging at two in the morning.

Choosing The Anchorage

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This happens at the chart table before you leave, not on arrival. Three things decide whether an anchorage works.

Step 06
Wind direction for the whole stay
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Not what it is doing now. What it does for as long as you intend to sit there, including overnight if that is the plan.

An anchorage that is perfect at two in the afternoon can be untenable by ten at night when the wind backs.

Step 07
You are on the weather shore, not a lee shore
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Anchor where the wind is blowing off the land toward you. The land gives you flat water and shelter.

There is a second reason, and it is the one that matters. If you drag off a weather shore, you drag out into open water where you have room and time to sort it out. If you drag off a lee shore, you go onto the beach or the rocks.

Wind blowing onto the shore you are anchored near is a lee shore. Comfortable enough until something lets go, then it is the worst place you could be.
Step 08
Swell direction checked, if it applies
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Wind protection and swell protection are two different things.

A bay can be flat calm on the surface and still roll all night if swell is wrapping around the headland. That is the difference between a good sleep and a miserable one.

Step 09
Depth and tidal range worked out
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Arriving at high water is a completely different depth to sitting there at the bottom of the tide six hours later.

Work out what is under your keel at low water, not what your sounder says on arrival. And work out how much more water is coming in, because that is scope you need to allow for.

Step 10
Hazards in the bay identified
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Off the chart or the boating app while you are planning the passage.

Rocks, cables, restricted areas, shoaling. Find them while you are sitting down with a coffee, not while you are trying to read the water on the way in.

Step 11
Bottom composition known
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Mud, sand, shell, weed or rock. The chart will usually tell you.

It decides how well you hold and how far the anchor drags before it bites. Sand and mud set well. Rock and heavy weed may not set at all, and you will not know until the wind comes up.

Scope calculator

Measured from the bow roller to the bottom. Not from the waterline.

What the sounder reads at the spot.
How much more water is coming before high. Zero if you are at the top.
Freeboard at the bow. Easy to forget, and it counts.
3:1 — emergency stop only
5:1 — comfortable for lunch
7:1 — overnight peace of mind
Swing circle radius at 7:1

Enter depth and bow height to get your numbers.

Brief The Crew

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Everybody together before you enter the basin. Roles, rules and how you are going to talk to each other.

Step 12
Roles given out
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Who is on the helm, who is releasing the anchor, who is watching the chain, who has the tender.

Named people. Not a general request for a hand, which gets you either nobody or three people in the way.

Step 13
Everyone told the plan
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Where you intend to anchor, how much chain is going out, and what the marking looks like so the bow can call it.

A crew that knows the plan can tell you when something is going wrong. A crew that does not can only follow orders one at a time.

Step 14
Passengers stay seated while anchoring
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Say it out loud, to everyone, before you start.

People wander at exactly the wrong moment. Usually to the bow, to watch, right where the chain is running.

Step 15
Nobody swims, jumps or launches toys until you say so
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Nothing goes in the water until you give the green light. Not when the boat looks stopped. Not when the chain goes quiet. When you say so.

You may need to lift and reset. You cannot do that with people and inflatables in the water around the boat.

Say this one twice. It is the rule most likely to get broken and the one with the worst consequences, because it puts people in the water beside a propeller you may need to use.
Step 16
Lifejackets on anyone working forward
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Anyone on the bow is leaning over the side, around moving chain, near an unguarded edge.

It takes ten seconds and you will be extremely glad you insisted if anyone goes in.

Step 17
Communication agreed and tested
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Headsets, handhelds or hand signals, whatever suits the boat. Then test it before you need it.

Agree the signals for chain out, further left, further right, stop, and something is wrong. Wind and engine noise means shouting does not work, and the bow is the furthest point from you on the whole boat.

Step 18
Free spooling explained
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Release the brake, let the chain pour out, wind the brake back on once enough is out.

Say it in those words. If you have not explained it, somebody will improvise, and improvising with a free-running chain goes badly.

The Approach

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Slow enough to make good decisions, with just enough way on to hold your heading.

Step 19
Anchor unstowed and ready to let go
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Devil's claw off, lashings off, latches off. Sitting on the brake and nothing else.

Lower it out of the hawse pipe so it hangs a little clear. Then when the brake comes off, gravity does the rest immediately rather than the anchor needing to be shaken free.

Step 20
Reading the water
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Ripples and streaks on the surface for wind. Movement around buoys, mooring balls and pilings for current.

You need to know which is stronger, because that is the one you approach into and the one that will lay your chain out for you.

Step 21
Other boats and their swinging room assessed
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Look at where they will end up, not just where they are sitting now.

A boat on a short scope and a boat on seven to one swing very differently. Watch which way they are lying and how much chain you can see. Swimmers in the water too.

Step 22
Approaching into the wind or current
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Come up on the spot from downwind or down current, whichever is stronger, so you are pointing into it as you arrive.

Then when you let go, the boat naturally falls back off the spot and lays the chain out along the bottom for you.

Step 23
Arriving at zero knots
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Bleed the momentum off gradually on the way in so you arrive at the spot already stopped.

If you need a big burst astern to kill the way on, you came in too fast. That burst also kicks the stern sideways and puts you somewhere other than where you wanted to be.

Drop And Set

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The part everyone rushes. Nothing here should happen fast.

Step 24
Stopped, then the nod, then let go
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The crew look aft to you. You give the word. Not before.

An anchor let go while the boat is still moving forward lands under your own bow and the chain piles on top of it.

Step 25
Drift back and lay the chain out
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Let the wind or current carry you back off the spot while the chain runs.

You are laying the chain along the bottom in a line, which is what lets the anchor load up properly and pull horizontally rather than straight up.

Step 26
Chain is laying out, not piling up
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Watch it go. It should be running out steadily as the boat moves back.

This is the catch with free spooling. If the boat is not moving back, the chain dumps straight down in a heap on top of the anchor. The boat feels held because the weight of chain is holding it. Nothing is set at all.

This is the failure that finds people at two in the morning. It felt fine all afternoon because there was no wind. Then it blew, the pile straightened out, and there was never any anchor set underneath it.
Step 27
Enough chain out, brake locked off
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Bow calls the marking, you confirm it against the plan, brake goes on.

If in any doubt about how much is down there, put more out. Chain in the locker is doing nothing for you.

Step 28
Watching the chain load and release
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Stand and watch it for a minute. It should bounce, take tension, then sag back down. Then do it again.

That rhythm is what good holding looks like. A chain that goes bar tight and stays there, or one that never loads at all, is telling you something is not right.

Step 29
Short touch astern to dig it in
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Gently. Enough to load the anchor and pull it into the bottom so it sets properly.

You are not trying to drag the boat backwards. You are asking the anchor to bury itself. Ease it on, hold it briefly, ease it off.

Step 30
Confirmed stopped against a fixed reference
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Pick something on the beam. A headland, a piling, a moored boat, two objects that line up.

You will swing left and right on the chain, and that is fine and normal. What you are checking is that you are not still moving backwards through the water.

Anchor Watch

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Anchored is not the same as finished. This is the part that lets you actually relax.

Step 31
Track running on the plotter or app
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Start a track. It shows you the shape of your swing, and a drag shows up immediately as the track walking off in one direction.

If you are using your phone for this, plug it in. A running GPS track will flatten a battery in a few hours, usually overnight, exactly when you need it.

Step 32
Snubber or bridle on, if you are staying
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Takes the load off the windlass and puts it on a line you can see, with some stretch in it.

Best practice for an overnight or a long stay. Not necessary if you are stopping for lunch.

Step 33
Engines shut down but ready to start
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Shut them down, but keep them available.

Tell the crew that too, so they know the day can change. Nobody should be halfway through dismantling something in the engine room.

Step 34
Green light given for swimming and toys
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Now, and not before. Say it clearly so everybody hears it.

That moment is also worth marking, because it is when the anchoring evolution is genuinely over.

Step 35
Neighbours monitored as everyone swings
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Distances change through the day as the wind and tide shift and boats come and go.

Check it now and again. The boat that anchored a comfortable distance away at lunch may be a lot closer by evening.

If in doubt, let it out. If you think you are dragging, pay out more chain. Do not winch in to try to tighten up. The chain is what stops you. And if you are still not happy, lift it and reset somewhere else. Twenty minutes of resetting is cheap.

Before you settle in

 

Emergency & Distress Guide
Mayday, Pan-Pan, Sécurité, radio scripts
Email Findings to First Mate
Log what you found on the ground tackle, send it ashore
Email to Logbook
Record where you anchored, how much chain, how it held
Crew Briefing Card
The safety brief to give before anyone steps aboard